😍 Dispatches from Scottsdale
On going to Arizona and learning how to vacation all over again
My wife and I spent five nights in Scottsdale, Ariz., last week. It was our first post-baby vacation and first pandemic out-of-town overnight that wasn’t our hometown. Given both cases, you could say we were learning how to vacation all over again, as a single couple and as new-world pandemic travelers.
Here are some lessons and other notes I took away from it:
The best part of a hike is the second half, when you get passed by other hikers double-timing it, desperate to get the hell out of there and cursing under their breath as they come by. The worst part is realizing you’re one of them.
Best Scottsdale breakfast: Butters. Maybe it’s because it was our first breakfast, but I had a two caffe lattes and the Mexicana omelette. I love a eggy option with a little Mexican flavor in the morning, and this one was excellent.
Lunch is the least important meal of the day. Don’t spend your money—nowhere is a “lunch place.”
Best Scottsdale dinner: Olive & Ivy. Our last dinner. We split a few bruschetta, a Classic Caesar, lasagna, a white truffle and prosciutto flatbread and gelato. The “dinner rolls” were focaccia. (Yeah.) Plus, the restaurant is located right on the waterfront of the Arizona Canal in Old Town.
Don’t book an Airbnb hosted by a “company.” We arrived to an uncleaned apartment that looked like the previous guests had just left. The host company wouldn’t have someone out to clean it until the next day, so we quickly booked a different Airbnb. Also, the host company refused to communicate with us in any way other than text—for the paper trail, they said. But I don’t know any business that isn’t recording phone calls—for the paper trail. Absolute bullshit service, though we got a full refund. Here’s an example of one of their places in Scottsdale, not the place we stayed.
From the annoyance of above came an idea: Fly to a city of your choosing without booking your Airbnb. Book it when you land. We got a huge discount.
Best margarita: Diego Pops. House margs. Later, tacos.
Scottsdale, Tempe, Mesa—generally, Phoenix—make up one of those metro areas in which you can cross a street and suddenly be in a different big-name city. We used to live in one of those metros. Always interesting.
Best bomb shelter: Salt Cellar. A widely recommended restaurant that looks like absolutely nothing. Literally! It’s underground. Above ground, it looks like a decked out port-a-potty, door surrounded by walls. Open the door, and you’re invited down into the earth by 2-3 flights of stairs. It begs the question: How did this restaurant end up here?
I forgot that when you get a sunburn on your first day, you kind of spend the rest of the time trying to not to do any more damage.
Go to Scottsdale now (February/March). It’s already sunny and hot enough.
Scottsdale is a young person’s getaway, especially a bachelorette party destination. I never would’ve guessed.
Scottsdale roads are, like, five lanes wide. Everywhere.
Many Scottsdale shoppes have Instagram-ready portrait areas.
There are iced coffee flights here. Get them.
Best beer: Fate Brewing. Fate had an excellent hefeweizen, Halfway to Hefen, and surprisingly good food—large helpings and menu.
Finally, the best part of the vacation? Being outside! (I bet my wife thought I was going to say something cute there.) We took every opportunity to do something outside, whether we were hiking, sitting by the pool, walking around Old Town or asking for a seat outside at whatever restaurant we were in. It was nice to breathe some fresh air again.
Sounds fabulous!!!